While we all make mistakes, I'm certain that our aftermarket autoparts experience will only degrade over time, since the amount of modules and custom hoses and whatnot will only increase with each new vehicle.

Here is my advice:

1] Find an older, dusty, bedraggled and scruffy looking auto parts store.... the stores that AZ and VIP and PB always claim to 'beat'. Get friendly with the manager or some senior counter person at any larger chain store - anyone that has been there a few years should be fine. A former auto mechanic would be a plus. Stay away from the 'newest store in town', stay away from youngsters, cocky males, etc.. I've actually had decent parts experiences with one Blonde female auto parts person.... not the stereotype! A more experienced counter person will hear all your details, the youngsters are too ADD, IMO.

2] Try to go into the store with the defective part in your hand. Sometimes that is why people start tearing down the vehicle while at the store.... they want to be SURE the store gives them the correct part.

3] Sometimes, only a dealers parts department knows for sure. I loved this with my 83 Charger..... it had a 1.6 Peugeot engine and the car could come with a 1.6 VW/Audi engine as well as two corporate engines. "I need the multirib serpentine belt for an '83 Charger with a Peugeot 1.6L..." "The engine has v-belts, sir." "Nope, you got the wrong 1.6 engine" "Sir, I have the parts book, and it clearly says you have v-belts, you must have a different car". Eventually ended up at a local dealer, because the aftermarket catalogs didn't list the Peugeot engine.

4] Use the online parts lookup systems - a visit to the online sites for both parts manufacturers (Wells, for example) and parts retailers (AZ, VIP, PB, NAPA, etc) will often get you out of the 'wrong part' syndrome - if you know what your part looks like, look it up for yourself; you can stop the inexperienced person from giving you that oil pressure sensor. Maybe you will make the same errors the counterperson makes - some retailers use their own website for parts lookup - but if you see the online part has a photo and they listed the wrong part... you saved a trip.

And not really a category, but still valuable: If the part is electrical, choose retailers that allow you to open the package so you can VISUALLY compare their suggested part with your actual part. Most retailers will NOT accept a return if you connect your wires to their device, mostly because of their prior experiences with less than reputable customers, but there is a difference between seeing clearly and firing it up. My point here is that although you never plug it in, you still need to LOOK at their proposed device, and some parts suppliers are getting cocky about refusing the parts simply because you opened the parts plastic bag.

I have had typically decent service with most of the parts shops around here. I also usually question parts I do not feel are correct. Just happened I took what was given without proper verification, which was a mistake on my part. I share in the blame for not questioning the part, but then again, the store I was using is usually pretty good about parts.

Anyway, Chrysler probably didn't do consumers and parts suppliers any favors by slapping the Sebring name on three different models, with multiple choices for both Mopar and Mitsu engines.

Conversely, I had a much better experience today with a part order at a local independent NAPA store. It took a few tries for the rep to verify the part was for a Ford Vulcan (OVH) instead of a Duratec (DOHC), as he kept wanting to sell the Duratec part for some reason, but otherwise the transaction went well. Ordered over the phone without payment on Friday, then picked it up today.

Want an parts supply annoyance? Try buying parts for an limited production Audi Quattro or possibly even worse, a classic Mercedes 450 with the infamous trigger-point ignition system.