A Fish Dinner in Memison

Manhattan clam chowder, that is. I know most people think New England clam chowder is the only sort worth eating, but they're just wrong. John Thorne's Serious Pig has three full chapters on chowders, and a lot of them are worth considering (see "Salmon Chowder", below).

Here's my grandma's recipe:

Ollie's Clam Chowder

4 strips smoky bacon
2 pints shucked clams [about two dozen large clams], minced
1 bottle clam juice (optional)
1 14-oz can tomatoes
salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, ¼-½ teaspoon thyme
2 medium potatoes, diced
1 cup carrots, diced
1 cup celery, diced

Dice the bacon. Cook until crisp in a 4-quart pot. Drain out all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.

Add 2 quarts of water and bring it to a boil. Add the clam juice and any liquor from the clams; if you've shucked them yourself, you won't need any bottled clam juice because you'll have lots.

Push tomatoes through a strainer or food mill and add. Add seasonings to taste. Add celery and carrots and cook for 20 minutes; add the potatoes and cook for 20 minutes more.

Correct seasonings, add clams and cook briefly.