September 27th, 2004, 01:31 PM #1
Tips on installing soffit and facia
Anyone have tips on installing soffit and facia on new construction..Did some searchig using Google and downloaded a manual form a site but looking for more information.
Wrapped in Tyvek
No roofing installed
Last edited by mad1; September 27th, 2004 at 01:36 PM.
September 27th, 2004, 01:35 PM #2
What materials are you using?
I have always installed soffit and fascia after roofing and siding were installed. This was using vinyl siding(soffit) and aluminum coil(fascia).
September 27th, 2004, 01:48 PM #3
metal soffita and facia on a open open truss. This is for a backyard shed. Would in not be easire if the soffit and facia were installed first?
What about cutting the vinly tirm,I heard using a chop saw with the blad reversed works good.The last time I did some siding I used shed metal cutters to cut the siding.
Last edited by mad1; September 27th, 2004 at 01:52 PM.
September 27th, 2004, 02:20 PM #4
It's been awhile since I did any of this, but a chop saw with the blade reversed is much quicker and you get better angle cuts. I used the shears for cuts that the saw could not handle.
We installed fascia and then soffit after we installed the siding. It has been years since I have installed siding, so getting another opinion would be a good idea.
Last edited by digby0668; September 27th, 2004 at 02:41 PM.
September 27th, 2004, 02:30 PM #5
If one ran a J channel,for soffit level to the overhang of the roof and then ran anoter J channel underneath that one for the siding .It would be nice if there was a double J channel that could be used for the siding and the facia?
September 27th, 2004, 02:42 PM #6
Double J channel is a great idea. You could revolutionize the industry.
September 27th, 2004, 02:49 PM #7
I have trouble believing that there is not such a piece for installing siding. One nails up a piece of trim around the top of the wall and that takes care of the trim need for the top of the wall The same material can be used on corners with the facia installation .
September 27th, 2004, 03:14 PM #8Originally Posted by digby0668
September 27th, 2004, 03:19 PM #9
You might want to wait for an opinion from someone who has done this more recently. The more questions you ask, the less I am sure of my memory.
September 27th, 2004, 04:39 PM #10
Originally Posted by mad1
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- PULL da FINGER
i ve never heard of a double j channel that would take care of both soffit and siding. just make sure the soffit and facia are completed before the siding.
i dont use jchannel at the top,immeadiatly under the soffit. i use undersill. then cut the siding to correct width,and get a tool called a....shoot i forgot what its called,but it makes a dimple along the edge of the top peice of siding. the dimple,if made in the correct place,will let the siding"snap" into the undersill.(the tool looks kinda like a leather punch). Lowes,Menards ,those kind of stores carry them,along with other siding/metal eve tools.
the tool is reletivly cheap,or you can use a 16 p nail and punch a hole. the hole will provide enough of a dimple to snap the last peice into place. no face nails required
you can cut the soffit with a plywood blade in backwards,but you will need some sort of jig to cut it square. if you can round up a radial arm saw,it would be ideal for both eves and siding.
any more questions,feel free to pm. ive done quite a bit of this type of work in the last few decades.
September 27th, 2004, 04:45 PM #11
September 27th, 2004, 05:07 PM #12
Originally Posted by mad1
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Canada [Maritimes]
i have done that using silicon between the two pieces plus i/4" long screws
to hold them together,once the silicon hardens its impossible to
come a part
i don't know if its the right way but it work
i used snips and jigsaw to cut the soffit
September 27th, 2004, 09:07 PM #13
To cut the suffit, buy a panelling blade for a circular saw adnd mount it backwards in the saw. I'll draw you a cutting table that is easy to make up and all you need is a couple of saw horses and a couple of long, (12') 2" x 4"s.
Using this cutting table you will be able to find a common measurement and cut a bunch at a time in seconds. You won't have to climb the ladde to ofter that way or scafolding.
I'll be back.
September 27th, 2004, 10:23 PM #14
You can nail this to a length of plywood or to the 2 x 4's across the saw horses. Easier to store if nailed to plywood. Just a small piece of plywood, a couple times bigger then the guide table.
Make the guide length 3 inches bigger than you need to slide the sofit into it.
Make the guide just a touch bigger then the shoe of the saw so you can easily push the sw through without it hanging up.
Nail the left side of the guide down first. You can see my little nail dots if you look closely. You make a saw cut across the slideafter you set the depth of the saw to 3/4 of an inch +. This will give you an idea of where to place the final brace nails.
Pretty easy to build and it will save you a heap of time.
Slide your sofitting in from the left.
Last edited by Beemer; September 27th, 2004 at 10:33 PM.
September 27th, 2004, 10:31 PM #15
I think the tool is called a Dimpler. I have one here if you want to borrow it.
Use an awl to make your nail holes in the sofit if you aren't using a sofit nailer.
Drive the sofit nails home with a 1/8th nail punch. This stops the deforming of the sofit material by the dull point nail.
Use bends instead of cut pieces to finish off the end of the sofit as this will make a snug fit being bent and won't let the wind rattle it while you're trying to sleep.. Lightly score the back of the final sofit peice so it will bend squarely and fit it into the end "J" .
September 28th, 2004, 07:04 AM #16
Beemer thanks for all the tips. I do have a punch for the top piece of siding,used it when I replaced the aluminum siding with vinyl siding.
"Use bends instead of cut pieces to finish off the end of the sofit as this will make a snug fit being bent and won't let the wind rattle it while you're trying to sleep" Are these pieces that can be purchased or need to be made?
How does on make the J channel,for the soffit on the rise to the peak of the for, level with the lowest part of the roof overhang?When installing the soffit would it be easier to leave one end of the channel loose and then slide the soffit pieces along the length of the roof, roof lenght is 16" for this shed ?
September 28th, 2004, 07:13 AM #17
Does anyone have a link to installation tips,with pictures would be better, for the soffit and facia. I have one guide that I have downloaded but looking for more details on the installation of the soffit.
I am taking time off from work on Thursday and Friday to work on the backyard shed,hopefully I can get most of this done.
What is the coldest weather that you have installed siding in?
Thanks for all the help
September 28th, 2004, 09:35 AM #18
The final piece of sofit will be a custom length. Add about 2 or 3 inches extra for the bend. You have to create the bend or rather fold the last piece to fit.
Secure the final "J" first and when you measure for the bend or fold make the length just enough to be able to insert the piece so that it doesn't fall out. You have to use a little pressure to get it in there but it just barely rests on the lip of the "J". Any longer and it will be hard to insert. The reverse side of the bend that you won't see when installed should be left at a 3/4 inch curl so that it applies pressure to the upper most lip of the "J". This pushes the visible side down to meet flush with the lower lip of the "J" and no unsightly air gap is visible.
I've installed siding in 32F weather but you have to be careful of chipping if using a sliding compound miter saw. When vinyl siding first came out it was really hard to work with in the cold. Just grabbing a length of siding to carry it to your installation point was enough to crack it. Today’s siding is a lot more durable but you still have to be careful if it's really cold.
Lineal cuts are best performed with a utility blade. You'll have to cut the final length of siding for width to fit into the snap sil. Snap a chalk line to mark your cut and then use a utility knife to make the cut. Don't try to cut all the way through the siding on the first cut. Draw a line with your knife kind of lightly the first time and then go over your knife line again to finish the cut. You'll get a much straighter cut and it's faster then using snips for this cut.
Cutting your facia:
Measure the facia cut after you install the "J". Use a 2' level to level across from your sub facia board to the wall. Make your mark and then drop the mark by 1/2 an inch. Create this mark three times. Both ends and centre of the wall. In the centre of thewall at your mark, set a 2 inch nail on the mark. Hook a chalk line to the nail and snap a line across to both ends of the wall to there you made your other marks. This does 2 things. No need for assistance in making your bond line and won't allow droop of the chalk line in the centre as it cuts the distance in half that you have to draw your chalk line.
Order of application:
Siding corner-molds to butt up to the Sofit J-Mold
Siding J-Mold (upper) or Snap Sil
Siding Bottom J-Mold or starter strip. (Let the starter strip or J-Mold hang below the exterior plywood or OSB by about 1/2 an inch when installing.)
Drip cap over window(s) and doors.
Window Mold as you come to a window.
This order isn't written in stone.
You can always install your siding corner molds first but just remember to allow for the 1/2" sofit "J" at the top when measuring the corner mold for application.
When you install your siding, start at the back of the house forward. You won't be able to see your lap cuts from approaching the house from the road that way.
Make sure all your siding matches where 2 walls meet on the corner. All lines around the corner should meet as to look continuous around the corner although broken up by the corner mold. Watch out for this as you climb up the wall with your siding. (Rookie mistake) This is why I suggested the bond lines earlier. Bond lines every third run or so will make you siding follow nice true lines down the wall as well as help with corner matching.
Last edited by Beemer; September 28th, 2004 at 09:45 AM.
September 28th, 2004, 10:36 AM #19
What about the drip cap on the long ends of the roof,shouldn't that be instlalled before the tar paper?My plan was to install the drip cap on the ends of the roof and then the tar paper over that and then the drip caps on the short ends of the roof,the sides that go up to the peak.
Thanks again for all the tips!
October 1st, 2004, 07:20 PM #20
I was refering to the drip cap on the top of the Windows when I said drip cap.
Don't tar paper past the ceiling in the house on the gable ends of the house.
I lost track of this thread. Sorry to leave you hangin'.
What drip cap or drip flash are you talking about? I don't quite get your description.
We so far have covered, sofit, facia, snap sil for facia and siding. If you are going to put the "T" flashing under the shingles that over hang 1 3/8" out from your facia, that should be nailed down before shingles. If you are able to lift the shingles very carefully and enough to nail the "T" flashing on, then go ahead before you install the snap sil.
I think that is what you are talking about.
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