Car Talk!

[RedFury]

Most likely the won't turn that rotor, but then again, it depends on how thick the rotor is to begin with and the minimum spec on the rotor once it were to be turned as to whether a shop would touch it or not.

If its possible, you could take the rotors off and see if they can be machined before you go spend the denero on new ones ( though Autozone doesn't turn rotors as far as I know - at least not at the one my Mother in law works at ). You may have some luck if you have a NAPA or Red Rooster near you.

Heck, if you have any small auto shops near you they may be able to turn them for you for cheap ( usually $10-15/ rotor ).

[The Real Bingo]

Mike, is the other side's rotor that bad, too? Also, how did the pad on that particular wheel wear?


Way to go on 5k, Red.

[moo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Real Bingo

Mike, is the other side's rotor that bad, too? Also, how did the pad on that particular wheel wear?


Way to go on 5k, Red.

Yes the other side is bad too, and I can tell ya how they wore. They screeched from the day the were changed. I thought, perhaps, there was sand or a stone stuck in there but once I saw the break dust coming out by the pound, I knew something else was in the works. As a matter of fact, these brakes were changed about a year ago so I have to wonder if the calipers aren't frozen. Why else would they wear that fast?

[The Real Bingo]

Wrong thread, vASS!



I see, Moo. The reason I ask is for my dad. I showed him the picture, and he was wondering if the other side of the pad is gone and down to the bare metal. From the picture, it looks like the front of the pad is still somewhat good.

[Shabow]

I hate brake dust.

[RedFury]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Real Bingo

Way to go on 5k, Red.

?

Premature break wear can be caused by a number of things...cheap pads will wear out fast to save the rotors, a frozen caliper will cause the pad to drag and wear. You could have warped rotors cause that, but you'd feel it when you applied the brakes.

You should have your friend do a thorough check on the Calipers. Not that difficult to do, you check for wear on the slides, and look at the piston bores for damage, plus the rubber boot needs to be checked for integrity. Make sure the bleeder valve will open up before going nuts with the brake job, for Bleeder screws on Disc brakes seem to have a high propensity for freezing and breaking off during removal vs. rear wheel cylinders on drum brakes ( due to heat ).

[The Real Bingo]

5000th post in the thread, silly.

[RedFury]

Bah, I never pay attention to trivial stuff like that! I'm waiting for my post count to get to custom title level.

[The Real Bingo]

You're posting in the wrong forum for that!

[RedFury]

Bah, this thread should almost have its own out of community forum.

At any rate, I got the oil pump on the car, managed to put the oil pan and all the rest of the stuff I took off, back on the car, only to find out....dum dum duuuuummmmmm.

NO compression in the cylinder previously known as "stuck in place" It was verfied by checking the compression in other cylinders, which all came up with pressure.

Major freakin' bummer. Now I've basically got to start with tearing the intake manifold back off, and then I get to break into exhaust component removal...yay! 155k of rust to deal with!

I'm distraught. I had hoped for the best, and found the worst.

Anyone interested in a 5 cylinder Pontiac?