Car Talk!

**RobRich** · August 14th, 2007, 01:25 PM

$7k is not too far off the mark if a verifiable odometer statement can be provided to prove the mileage. Toss KBB used car valuation out the window. You are looking at what is essentially a "modern" collectable or sport enthusiast car.

Still, I am thinking more along the lines of $5k or so since it is not a convertible.

BTW, the front tag looks out of state. Pehaps MI or maybe even the east coast. Such issues can play into the purchasing decision, especially if a car exposed to harsh climates.

RamonGTP · August 14th, 2007, 07:27 PM

18k miles for a 20 year old car??? Man, I drive ATLEAST 15k miles in a single year! I'm wonering if the ODO hasn't "reset" and it really has 118k miles.

**RobRich** · August 14th, 2007, 08:05 PM

Some people simply do not drive their cars, especially a "weekend" car or similar. Case in point, my 1990 Talon has ~40k miles.

SoloCamo · August 14th, 2007, 08:10 PM

Or our old 72' impala with only 64k original on the clock...

Anyways, as far as my electrical issues go:

Took it up to Advance, battery tested fine. Alternator's volts tested great, but the amps were horrible at 2amps. However, we brought it up to a local mechanic, and their voltmeter said it was fine.

I know something isn't fine though, today the volts acted worse then ever. I hit the fogs, and the volts dropped into the red and slowly climbed back into around 13 which is still low. Even when I tapped the brakes, it dropped the volts dramatically. Same with the headlights.

It seems to run fine though..

They said all the connections seemed to be fine as well. I don't know what to do, but i'm probably going to get another opinion.

**RobRich** · August 14th, 2007, 08:17 PM

Sounds like an alternator problem. Worn brushes, internal field wire/connector issue, or similar sound like potential candidates.

A voltmeter is a quick and dirty test. An amperage test is more telling. The regulator can keep voltage in check, but a failing alternator can diminish amperage output.

wattage = voltage * amperage

I might would have thought of a sulfanated cell in the battery, but the battery is still relatively new and checked out.

SoloCamo · August 14th, 2007, 10:05 PM

Yea, I'm really leaning towards the alternator on this one. It is also a bit rusted, being that it sits so low in the bay.

Also, if you don't mind. When it comes to alternators, running a too powerful one can be a bad thing correct? I'm not really sure if I will need a more powerful one over stock, considering i'm running two 10w fogs, and a newer speaker headunit(was in there when I got it) , with a single, maybe 50w speaker I added. I highly doubt those are enough to warrant anything stronger than OEM, though.

**RobRich** · August 14th, 2007, 10:57 PM

Increased amperage doesn't hurt. You could run an 100+ amp alternator, assuming you could find one to fit. However, a stock unit should suffice for your current setup.

2monsters · August 14th, 2007, 11:09 PM

Solo Sounds like the same problem i once had in my f350. I would turn on my headlights and the volt meter would drop, even my turn signals would make them drop. Turned out to be the alternator. 1 thing i would suggest is get a good one , i went through 3 cheapies in a years time til i finally broke down and just bought a motor craft alternator, no problems 2 years later.

rrcn · August 16th, 2007, 04:22 AM

About to hit 20,000 miles on the truck and it has been just over a year (purchased Aug. 6th).

SoloCamo · August 16th, 2007, 10:13 AM

Hmmm..It seems my volts have been fine for the past few days. I've been doing tons of testing, running every electrical thing possible, and it's dropping as it should.

Maybe the alt is on its way out, but decided to give me a little extra time? (so it can catch me off guard

) I don't know, but for now, I will continue testing it.