Car Talk!

[SiliconJon]

Spending that much on pads, I'm pondering getting new discs as well. My discs are well corroded, and according to the last mechanic they're about minimum specs. While I could wait one more round of brake pads, I wonder if new discs would improve the performance and life span of the new pads (which look like they're going to be the greenstuffs).

An OEM replacement set of 4 will run me about $140. A set of 4 EBC drilled & slotted (EBC SPORT SLOTTED AND DIMPLED BRAKE DISC SET ) will run twice that.

I don't know if that would be a wise purchase just yet, unless the current rotors devour the new pads.

[RobRich]

As long as the rotors are smooth and not pitted, then can be turned down to rather thin numbers. However, for $140, I would probably invest in an OEM set assuming the existing rotors can not be turned any further.

Slotted and drilled rotors are largely overrated for common street applications. Even for basic racing, go to an entry-level SCCA event and look at the number of road course racers running OEM rotors with ceramic pads.

[SoloCamo]

Do not go with drilled, and I would personally stay away with slotted. Drilled is for cooling, which you will not need as you are obviously not racing the thing (and even so, drilled aren't used for racing AFAIK) Slotted are alright, but you are going to get the longest life and best performance out of a set of smooth rotors.

More braking surface = best performance.

[SiliconJon]

Gotta love it when the cheaper option(s) is the better.

Now, for a question that I have yet to have a second physical opinion on the matter. I have taken the '02 Avalon to the dealer thrice now, and not once have they been able to tell me why my car is doing this. I think it's suspension related...but here are the symptoms:

The issue occurs irregularly. There are certain road conditions under which it can be reproduced with higher certainty (such as frequent but small rough spots), but for the most part the problem comes and goes without an exact catalyst.

What is happening is a rattling, sounding as though it is mostly coming from the rear of the vehicle. When this rattling occurs I get poor handling issues - the bumps during the rattling tend to also cause the rear of the car to shift very slightly even when on a straight shot - the feeling as though my rear tires are ever so slightly lifting from upon the ground. I checked everything in the trunk, nothing was loose to cause the rattle. The first time in the dealer's shop they said they replaced the stabilizer bar, though they weren't sure if that was causing the problem. Oddly, or perhaps coincidentally, the noise was absent for a short period afterwards - though I'm not sure if something had been tightened or if it was just a coincidence.

[SoloCamo]

Best way to check that out, is to jack it up and take a look yourself.

A simple look can sometimes reveal some things you would never think of. Jiggle some things, make sure everything seems tight, and check the bushing on everything. Recheck the swaybar as well.

It would also be wise to pick up a haynes or chiltons manual for the car to really give you a help when you look under there. I know my haynes manual has done wonders for me.

[RobRich]

Suspensions are not my area of experience, but you can give this a quick try.

Go out to your car and bounce the rear end at the center of the bumper. Do both sides recover to the proper height at the same rate? If they do not recover evenly, you might have a strut or strut mount issue on one side.

You can also bounce each side indepedently to see if there is delay in recovery on one side.

[SiliconJon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloCamo

Best way to check that out, is to jack it up and take a look yourself.

A simple look can sometimes reveal some things you would never think of. Jiggle some things, make sure everything seems tight, and check the bushing on everything. Recheck the swaybar as well.

It would also be wise to pick up a haynes or chiltons manual for the car to really give you a help when you look under there. I know my haynes manual has done wonders for me.

I also need to take it to the local lube/oil change place. I'm often amazed at the skill of some of their employees - likely prevented from a job they are well equipped to handle due to "technical" documentational shortcomings.

I will take the above advise next available opportunity.

Would you guys know if "CENTRIC PREMIUM BRAKE DISC WITH BLACK E-COATED HUB -- Direct Fit OEM Replacement Brake Rotor, Centric Premium Black Rotors Offer Superior Machined Surfaces That Provide Smoother And Quieter Stops And Longer Brake Pad Life, Black E-Coating Gives Long Lasting Corrosion Protection, Centric Premium Rotors Meet Or Exceed OEM Standards For Excellence, Sold Individually"
...
would be worth the $6/ea premium versus something such as a standard Brimbo OEM spec disc?

[hokie64]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloCamo

Do not go with drilled, and I would personally stay away with slotted. Drilled is for cooling, which you will not need as you are obviously not racing the thing (and even so, drilled aren't used for racing AFAIK) Slotted are alright, but you are going to get the longest life and best performance out of a set of smooth rotors.

More braking surface = best performance.

Several things to comment on, but only quoted the most recent.

Racing rotors can be both slotted, drilled, or both. Both designs are fairly efficient at providing turbulent cooling to spinning discs. Neither are going to be important in a single stop from reasonable speeds. Braking performance due to decreased surface area is negligible as the total friction force is going to be unaffected- Just slightly hotter in the areas where the braking pressure is going to be higher. The pad/rotor contact area is not a highly volatile part of brake performance. Of #1 concern is keeping heat down, most everything is designed around that.

EDIT: slotted/drilled rotors are well known to crack under hard use as well.

In your avalon, there is no need for any kind of modificatied geometry. Without doing multiple hard, long stops, you're oem brake setup will be just fine.

Regarding "upgraded" pads. I run hawk/brembo street+ pads for daily driving. There has been at least a dozen times i've had to dive into the Ebrake to stop on cold days. You have to be real careful with pads made to run hot(ter). Expect extra dust, possible squealing, and chewed rotors.

On a semi related note, the best thing you can do for your braking performance, if you are interested, is get better tires.

[RobRich]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SiliconJon

would be worth the $6/ea premium versus something such as a standard Brimbo OEM spec disc?

Not IMO. Just get the cheaper OEM replacement rotors.

[hokie64]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobRich

Not IMO. Just get the cheaper OEM replacement rotors.

+1. Toyota oem braking systems are top notch.