Car Talk!

[RedFury]

It seems that I need to have one in order to bleed the brakes on this thing anyway, so I might just have to splurge on a scanner anyway....

[SoloCamo]

Sooo I need to test my TPS and IAC as I've had a rather annoying high idle while driving and idling which is killing my already bad gase mileage.

I've got a voltmeter...but I've never used one before. What settings do I set it to?

[Orangeline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloCamo

Sooo I need to test my TPS and IAC as I've had a rather annoying high idle while driving and idling which is killing my already bad gase mileage.

I've got a voltmeter...but I've never used one before. What settings do I set it to?

Set it to DC Volts and the range should be pretty low, something like 0-20V. Depending on what you are checking you will see 0-12V. A TPS usually maxes around 5V.

Depending on your car, you may have an idle adjustment screw too

[SoloCamo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orangeline

Set it to DC Volts and the range should be pretty low, something like 0-20V. Depending on what you are checking you will see 0-12V. A TPS usually maxes around 5V.

Depending on your car, you may have an idle adjustment screw too

Thanks.

Well it turns out both my TPS and MAP were perfectly in spec...good in the sense of not having to replace either of them...bad in the sense that everything else likely is more expensive and harder to fix

[Orangeline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloCamo

Thanks.

Well it turns out both my TPS and MAP were perfectly in spec...good in the sense of not having to replace either of them...bad in the sense that everything else likely is more expensive and harder to fix

Could be a problem with the IACV. What car is it and exactly how high is the idle? If you can't figure it out, I know a good person in Tampa to take it to.

[bigblue77]

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If not try spraying brake or carb clean around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses while its running. If the idle gets higher or the engine sputters, there is a leak there.

[SoloCamo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orangeline

Could be a problem with the IACV. What car is it and exactly how high is the idle? If you can't figure it out, I know a good person in Tampa to take it to.

The IACV used to be the problem, but I've always simply cleaned it and it took care of it. Also, generally when it was the IAC it was a slightly higher idle than what it is now. The idle judging by my ear is probably around 1250-1500rpms

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigblue77

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If not try spraying brake or carb clean around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses while its running. If the idle gets higher or the engine sputters, there is a leak there.

[Tarp2]

IMO you should have the system purged, new fluid put in, and bled professionally. As a do it your selfer , I don't say this lightly. I would like to be able to tell you how to do this in your own back yard, But ABS is just too technology rich for average guys like me. Why take chances with braking?

[Orangeline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloCamo

The IACV used to be the problem, but I've always simply cleaned it and it took care of it. Also, generally when it was the IAC it was a slightly higher idle than what it is now. The idle judging by my ear is probably around 1250-1500rpms



Will do.

If it is a MAP equipped car, a vacuum leak will *usually* lead to an irregular idle shooting up and down in waves. With a MAF or others, it could lead to the higher idle or just running a tad lean (naturally aspirated).

[SoloCamo]

Vacuum lines appear ok, but oddly it does have a up/down idle in waves...Hmmmm.

On the positve side, I created a heatshield for my cutout airbox and boy oh boy did it make a difference for low-end torque from a stop. You can physically touch the airbox now and it's ambient temp while the engine is running in comparison of it burning you on contact before the install.

Materials? Sunshade visor :lmao: