Car Talk!

nickslick74 · August 4th, 2009, 12:51 PM

Nissan Leaf electric car unveiled in Japan:

Quote:

A top speed of 90 mph, a range of 100 miles per charge with a 30-minute recharge where quick-charging stations are available (6 hours with a 220-volt current) and seat cushion-compressing acceleration that will launch it from zero to 30 mph faster than an Infiniti G37, thanks to 207 pound-feet of torque from its 80 kilowatt (107 horsepower) electric motor are all part of the package.

However, unlike the Chevy Volt, it does not have a gasoline engine to recharge the battery on the fly. Around town and medium trips would be fine, but a run up to my folks cabin would require a recharge stop.

jokostel · August 4th, 2009, 01:09 PM

Thats the biggest problem with the electric idea or hydrogen right now.
The shear cost of building and developing a layout for filling stations across the highways and byways of the country.
It makes the healthcare bill look cheap.

Just need to have someone comeout with a way to generate hydrogen or high VDC on the fly..... be it with garbage, electromagnetism.... etc....

Bizkitkid2001 · August 4th, 2009, 01:10 PM

I want a Tango 600, once they can get it down cheap enough. $108,000 is too much for me. Commuter Cars - The TANGO, ultra-narrow electric car for commuting; 0-60 in 4 seconds

1,000 lb/ft of torque
0-60 in 4 seconds
1/4 mile in 12 seconds with a trap speed "Over 100mph"
Top speed of 130mph
And go kart handling (I know it looks like it is going to tip over, but 2,000lbs of batteries are below the seats)
Range of "over" 150 miles

They sell a seperate trailor generator that you pull behind for extended trips that will recharge the batteries while you drive.

SoloCamo · August 4th, 2009, 08:18 PM

Still can't figure out this high idle...

Vacuum lines all seem good....ground wires cleaned and all seemed well. Intake and exhaust manifold bolts were all tight.

This did become much more prevalant when the CPS was replaced though....Hmmmm?

I'm talking it will hold 5mph without any throttle, and it will climb up hills, albeit slowly, as well without me on the gas. Doesn't matter if the temp is at 100* or 210* same high idle either way. I noticed when on cold starts, it will rev up and then drop revs, then up again, in uniform waves, until it warms up slightly and then it's a constant high idle.

Also, my electric fan never has kicked on in the 3 years I've owned it and I know I've gotten it well past the point where it should when I had a bad clutch fan so I think it's possibly my CTS is shot? Plus, I seem to get a rough idle when at operating temp of 210*f. Also, In the 3 years I've owned it, the o2 sensor hasn't been replaced as well, but general tuneups have been done multiple times.

Judging from the fact that the CTS is the cheapest of the bunch, do you think it would be wise to try that first? I'm strapped on cash here and I've been trying everything within my means the past few days with zero change in idle.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Orangeline · August 4th, 2009, 11:55 PM

Does the CTS have a MAF or MAP?

Could be a gasket on the intake manifold going to any of the valves, sensors, throttle body, etc. Also, sort of just sounds like a bad idle air control valve. Could start blocking off or unplugging things till something changes. Also make sure you checked for leaks everywhere around the manifold by spraying carb cleaner

SoloCamo · August 6th, 2009, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orangeline

Does the CTS have a MAF or MAP?

Could be a gasket on the intake manifold going to any of the valves, sensors, throttle body, etc. Also, sort of just sounds like a bad idle air control valve. Could start blocking off or unplugging things till something changes. Also make sure you checked for leaks everywhere around the manifold by spraying carb cleaner

It runs a MAP.

Anyways, I haven't sprayed the manifold yet.

But so far blocking the vacuum lines has made zero difference.. I also unplugged the tps and it made zero difference in idle or when driven. That struck me odd...because it seemed to test ok with the volt meter

I also, took apart and recleaned the IAC and throttlebody, this seemed to help VERY slightly, but that's because they were gummed up a little. I'm also getting quite a bit of oil blowback in comparison to before...

I know my brakes need work as I've got a fluid leak, but my brakebooster seems to be working properly (clamped the vac line to see if idle dropped and it didn't, pedal also depresses fine when starting motor, etc.)

Minus the gasket, i'm running out of ideas heres...

Tarp2 · August 8th, 2009, 02:40 AM

The nice thing about MAP ( Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensors, and TPS (Throttle Position Sensors) (for those of us who don't work with them much, me included} is that they have a 'limp home mode'.

That means if they fail to work as designed, they will still keep the car running, Just not efficiently. I learned this by owning a few Chevy Cavaliers.

And, a bad Map sensor can ruin a good O2 sensor.

Good luck.

Dave

SoloCamo · August 9th, 2009, 04:08 PM

Well since I seafoamed a little whiles ago, I'm going to throw in some new plugs again. (just did that like 6 months ago), but instead of using my colder champions, I'm going to step it up one notch and use the later model 4.0 Highoutput champions that run slightly hotter. Considering my larger injectors and that the majority of my trips are short, around town, it should help a bit.

Next is the CTS sensor and possibly the o2 sensor....then who knows!

Bizkitkid2001 · August 13th, 2009, 10:44 AM

Just got my car back from the paint and body shop. They did an excellent job repairing the scratches and reapplying the clear coat. They were also able to contact the Toyota dealership and get the "Car shield" paint that my car came with that is suppose to repair tiny scratches by melting in the sun. They also reapplied my pin stripes perfectly and it ended up costing less than what they quoted me.

They also threw in a full detail inside and out for free. The car is now cleaner than when I bought it brand new.

I may actually go out and take pictures of it.

Tarp2 · August 14th, 2009, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloCamo

Well since I seafoamed a little whiles ago, I'm going to throw in some new plugs again. (just did that like 6 months ago), but instead of using my colder champions, I'm going to step it up one notch and use the later model 4.0 Highoutput champions that run slightly hotter. Considering my larger injectors and that the majority of my trips are short, around town, it should help a bit.

Next is the CTS sensor and possibly the o2 sensor....then who knows!

Have you looked at your Thermostat/and or sensor(usually located at the radiator hose gooseneck on the engine) ? You were talking about the fan not working and I am thinking that the ECM is not getting the right signal about the engine temp. That would cause the idle to be high because it never gets the signal that the engine is at proper temp. Also, the fan won't run, because the computer is being told the engine is always cold.
Just a thought.

Tarp