June 17th, 2009, 08:33 AM #1
Club Car 36V motor No work after sitting for 5 years.
What would be the best way to test the motor?
Wiring is completely shot I have 36 VDC jumpered together and I connected it to the positive and negative leads on the motor and nothing happened.
I know it worked before the long sit so I guess the windings are ok. What are common things to look for to try and bring the motor back to life.
there are 4 terminals on the sucker and I am not sure if I have to use any combinations of greater than 2 to make it work?
June 17th, 2009, 09:10 AM #2
What was your power source? 3-12V batteries, or AC/DC converter?
Do you have an ohmmeter?
How to Check for a Bad DC Electric Motor | eHow.com
Extra reading: How does a DC motor work: How DC Electric Motors Work | eHow.com
Shorts in a DC motor: How Do I Check a DC Motor for Shorts? | eHow.com
Alsoindustrial motors, so you will need to parse some of the instructions)# test insulation resistance of motor wires and windings by using megohmmeter between T1, T2, & T3 leads and ground, then;
# test “T” leads to motor with ohmmeter for continuity and ohmage of windings between A to B, B to C, A to C; each resistance should be within 1 or 2 ohms of each other; if the ohms readings are significantly different, or, if there is no continuity; go to the motor disconnect box, turn it off, perform the continuity and resistance test on the “T” leads, again; if the readings are good, the problem is in the wires from the motor controller to the disconnect switch;
# check the three wires by disconnecting all three wires from switch and twist together; go to controller and check for ground with megger, check for continuity between A to C, B to C, A to C; one or more wires will be open or grounded;
# correct solution is to pull all new wires in from controller to motor disconnect switch, whatever caused the problem may have damaged the other wires, also; replace all wires
if problem is on motor side of disconnect switch, open motor connection box and disconnect motor;
# check motor for resistance to ground with megohmmeter, if reading is below 500,000 ohms, motor is grounded and must be replaced;
# test motor windings for ohms between phases with ohmmeter A to B, B to C, A to C, readings should be within 1 or 2 ohms of each other; if readings indicate open or a significant ohmage difference, replace motor;
# if motor test readings are good, test the motor leads between the disconnect switch and the motor connection box for continuity and ground resistance, if readings are not good, replace wires;
Last edited by no1_vern; June 17th, 2009 at 09:13 AM.They say technology slows down for no one. I know it outruns my wallet. I figure its because my wallet isn't light enough yet.
TechIMO Folding@home Team #111 - Crunching for the cure!
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June 17th, 2009, 09:18 AM #3
yeah I have an ohm meter.
I doubt windings so I guess I will go right for checking brushes.
June 17th, 2009, 09:32 AM #4
I'd take it to an electric motor shop. If the armature is ok, then the reconditioning won't break the bank. (depending on your bank).
They'll put it on the "growler" - definitely worth watching...Obama: The rich have the Federal Reserve and the poor have Harry Reid... LOL. Life really is unfair!
June 17th, 2009, 02:53 PM #5
I am not totally opposed to that but I usually do not like giving money away if emery cloth will fix it.
It ran until it was parked due to bad batteries. so 5 years of parked does what to a motor?
June 17th, 2009, 03:11 PM #6
June 17th, 2009, 03:46 PM #7
I am able to push the golf cart freely. My assumption is that yes it spins freely. I charged the batteries and will test tonight to see if I can get it to kick over.
Why four wires to the motor. Do I need to use more than 2 to kick it over or are they just used for fwd and reverse?
June 17th, 2009, 04:24 PM #8
This is not a permanent magnet motor like you have in toy cars. You have a field coil that takes the place of a permanent magnet. 2 wires are for that coil.
You have the other 2 that apply to the armature through the brushes.
So without a properly connection to them .....well it does not work.
OOPS, forgot something.
NEMA and the NEC requires the motor to be clearly marked as to Voltage, Amps and conections. Look carefully and if you have my luck it is on the side of the motor you cannot see without pulling it.
Last edited by Black*Dragon; June 17th, 2009 at 04:27 PM.Obama Lies
June 18th, 2009, 10:18 PM #9
I will look for a tag. but my guess is it rusted away a generation ago
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