hp compaq nc6000 problems

[VERT]

I have just got an NC6000 and have a few problems

1 being the touchpad refuses to work, I have tried installing all the drivers from the HP/Compaq site

and the 2nd thing which is more important to me is I have just got a D-Link PCMCIA wireless DWL-G630 card for the laptop, it installs ok but if set on DHCP it fails to get an IP address and if I give it an IP address it constantly drops the connection.
I have tried different versions of drivers, I have tried reinstalling XP but no luck
The wireless card will work fine in other laptops
Can anyone recommend a PCMCIA wireless card that will work in this laptop

[discardage]

In the past, I have used a Netgear WG511 card to connect to a DG834 with no problems.

More recently, I'm happy with the HP WLAN drivers for my (non-centrino) NC6000.

[race07]

you should be booting to the HDD...at that point in the setup...
Try this: boot the the XP CD, delete and recreate the boot partition, do a full format instead of a quick, and have it go through the setup again, when it reboots make sure you go to the HDD. make sure you clean the Xp CD real good to eliminate any issues there. If this doesn't work, get the manufacturer HDD diagnostics and test the HDD fully to be sure it is not defective. When it reboots you could try to pull the XP CD out of the drive just long enough to make sure it does boot to the HDD and then put it back in...hmmm try that and let me know how that goes.

[razzb3d]

I FINALLY have a dix for the boot up problem fot the NC6000 notebook.

After carefully reading all the posts in this thread, i came to the conclusion that indeed the fault is with the laptops power converter. This wil ONLY affect NC6000s that have a damaged CPU (the ceramic pill of the CPU is damaged). The CPU's still work, but:

Power from the PTU (power translation unit) reaches the top of the ceramic/silicone pill of the CPU by means of the copper CPU heatsink. Users have reported that by pressing down on the CPU fan (right top side of the keyboard) the unit will start up. Initially I attempted to somehow lift the CPU fan so it will not touch the mainboard. It made things worse. Than, i noticed that a part of the heatsink touches DIRECTLY one of the coils and the top of the power connector.

What you need to do is buy some electric insolation tape and wrap it around the copper pipe of the heatsink (WARNING!!! ONLY INSOLATE THE PIPE, NOT THE BASE THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE CPU!!!). Completly wrap the heatpipe with tale, and put some around the end of the heatsink - in such way that the fins of the radiator are not covered, and air still flows trought it. Do not put tape in front or behind the fins, only on top of it, otherwise the CPU will overheat. Also insolate the margins of the metal cpu fan holder, including the borders that come in contact with the copper heatsink, but BE CAREFULL TO ONLY INSOLATE THE MARGINS, NOT THE AIR HOLE AT THE END OF THE FAN, SO AIR WILL STILL BE ABLE TO PASS TROUGHT.

This way, the CPU will be isloated from the PTU, and you will be able to boot up your device normally and also move it around.

Unfortunaly i have no fix for the touchpad yet. I will investigate an if i come to a solution i will let you know.

DO NOT BUY A NEW MAINBOARD, IT IS NOT THE PROBLEM. I have repaird 5 devices by know, an "recovered" two "broken" mainboards. Always, the problem is the CPU coming in contact with the PTU trought the heatpipe.

Thell me if this helps. It worked for me.

[ujjainya]

HI, JUST G0 THROUGH YOUR LAPTOP MAINTAINENCE GUIDE, IT'S SO EASY TO FIND.
ujjainya@mail.ru

[ktvanhorne]

Originally Posted by discardage

I have just brought my NC6000 back from the dead by tightening the fan-screw.

I'd had never opened a laptop before, so the really *hard* part was getting to understand how the zif sockets operate - I yanked the ribbons out without unclipping them and only realised that the clips needed to be tugged upwards for release.

Like you, I found this fix to be very helpful. I fixed my "new" second hand laptop back in March. It worked until last month when I had to tighten the screw again.
However, it is now July, and it is not working again. I have tightened it again, but this time it didn't bring it back to life. I unscrewed the top left screw and scraped the copper contact circle as clean as I could with my little screwdriver and even added some aluminum foil as suggested above. Still nothing.

Any other ideas? My fan screw is starting to strip from me tightening it so much. If there are other ideas, please send them!

[RamWrck]

Originally Posted by razzb3d

I FINALLY have a dix for the boot up problem fot the NC6000 notebook.

After carefully reading all the posts in this thread, i came to the conclusion that indeed the fault is with the laptops power converter. This wil ONLY affect NC6000s that have a damaged CPU (the ceramic pill of the CPU is damaged). The CPU's still work, but:

Power from the PTU (power translation unit) reaches the top of the ceramic/silicone pill of the CPU by means of the copper CPU heatsink. Users have reported that by pressing down on the CPU fan (right top side of the keyboard) the unit will start up. Initially I attempted to somehow lift the CPU fan so it will not touch the mainboard. It made things worse. Than, i noticed that a part of the heatsink touches DIRECTLY one of the coils and the top of the power connector.

What you need to do is buy some electric insolation tape and wrap it around the copper pipe of the heatsink (WARNING!!! ONLY INSOLATE THE PIPE, NOT THE BASE THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE CPU!!!). Completly wrap the heatpipe with tale, and put some around the end of the heatsink - in such way that the fins of the radiator are not covered, and air still flows trought it. Do not put tape in front or behind the fins, only on top of it, otherwise the CPU will overheat. Also insolate the margins of the metal cpu fan holder, including the borders that come in contact with the copper heatsink, but BE CAREFULL TO ONLY INSOLATE THE MARGINS, NOT THE AIR HOLE AT THE END OF THE FAN, SO AIR WILL STILL BE ABLE TO PASS TROUGHT.

This way, the CPU will be isloated from the PTU, and you will be able to boot up your device normally and also move it around.

Unfortunaly i have no fix for the touchpad yet. I will investigate an if i come to a solution i will let you know.

DO NOT BUY A NEW MAINBOARD, IT IS NOT THE PROBLEM. I have repaird 5 devices by know, an "recovered" two "broken" mainboards. Always, the problem is the CPU coming in contact with the PTU trought the heatpipe.

Thell me if this helps. It worked for me.

razzb3d can you post some pics of this fix?

RamWreck

[discardage]

Originally Posted by ktvanhorne

Like you, I found this fix to be very helpful....
However, it is now July, and it is not working again....
Any other ideas?...

Sorry pal, my glee was a bit premature!

The nc6000 will boot up, and will be usable for a few mins, and then die.

I'm not using it at the moment, but I might try the insulating tape technique posted by razzb3d. I'll have a bucket of sand ready, in case it goes up in a ball of flame...

[opensys]

Power supply problems like:

orange led at power on,
turn on automatic,
turn off automatic,
shutdown on connect a usb device,
fast cpu fan with no 3 leads blinks,
make some presion on cpu area its turn on,
interrupted turn on and turn off cycle when turn it on,

Strip right down to the mother board. Then reheat / re-solder 48 connections on IC MAX1987.
They are very fine, so use a very fine point solder iron.
IC MAX1987 is located on underside of the CPU.

In my laptop this work perfect.

OpenSys

[LindaJay]

Could one of you nice techie guys help me. My battery in my Compaq NC6000 is not keeping the charge and I have just bought a replacement.

I thought it would just pull out and be replaced, but I dont seem to be able to do this. Can you tell me how to do it - nicely please.

Thanks.

Linda