hp compaq nc6000 problems

[adeibojo]

I have a Compaq Hp nc6000. when I power it on It will boot, load the os after about 30 to 45 min it will power off but the green power light remain on. pls i need help./QUOTE

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellydude

Thank you,

I will try it.

[bardicverse]

After reading the post from another school technician here, I tried booting the nc6000 and applying pressure to the palm rest area on the right side of the trackpad, and this worked fine to make it boot. In cases where a laptop travels often or is dropped, parts of the chasis might come loose. TO give a more proper fix without pricey repair, fold up a sheet of printer paper into a small square and place it inside the case in the area that the pressure is needed.

[greenspacepros]

Quote:

Originally Posted by opensys

Power supply problems like:

orange led at power on,
turn on automatic,
turn off automatic,
shutdown on connect a usb device,
fast cpu fan with no 3 leads blinks,
make some presion on cpu area its turn on,
interrupted turn on and turn off cycle when turn it on,

Strip right down to the mother board. Then reheat / re-solder 48 connections on IC MAX1987.
They are very fine, so use a very fine point solder iron.
IC MAX1987 is located on underside of the CPU.

In my laptop this work perfect.

OpenSys

How long did it take?...what tools were needed other than solder iron?...Can you recommend someone that can do this?

Your assistance in this matter is appreciated.

[rykohl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by razzb3d

I FINALLY have a dix for the boot up problem fot the NC6000 notebook.

After carefully reading all the posts in this thread, i came to the conclusion that indeed the fault is with the laptops power converter. This wil ONLY affect NC6000s that have a damaged CPU (the ceramic pill of the CPU is damaged). The CPU's still work, but:

Power from the PTU (power translation unit) reaches the top of the ceramic/silicone pill of the CPU by means of the copper CPU heatsink. Users have reported that by pressing down on the CPU fan (right top side of the keyboard) the unit will start up. Initially I attempted to somehow lift the CPU fan so it will not touch the mainboard. It made things worse. Than, i noticed that a part of the heatsink touches DIRECTLY one of the coils and the top of the power connector.

What you need to do is buy some electric insolation tape and wrap it around the copper pipe of the heatsink (WARNING!!! ONLY INSOLATE THE PIPE, NOT THE BASE THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE CPU!!!). Completly wrap the heatpipe with tale, and put some around the end of the heatsink - in such way that the fins of the radiator are not covered, and air still flows trought it. Do not put tape in front or behind the fins, only on top of it, otherwise the CPU will overheat. Also insolate the margins of the metal cpu fan holder, including the borders that come in contact with the copper heatsink, but BE CAREFULL TO ONLY INSOLATE THE MARGINS, NOT THE AIR HOLE AT THE END OF THE FAN, SO AIR WILL STILL BE ABLE TO PASS TROUGHT.

This way, the CPU will be isloated from the PTU, and you will be able to boot up your device normally and also move it around.

Unfortunaly i have no fix for the touchpad yet. I will investigate an if i come to a solution i will let you know.

DO NOT BUY A NEW MAINBOARD, IT IS NOT THE PROBLEM. I have repaird 5 devices by know, an "recovered" two "broken" mainboards. Always, the problem is the CPU coming in contact with the PTU trought the heatpipe.

Thell me if this helps. It worked for me.

Both the top of the coil and the AC power connector are just grounds. All of my NC6000's have heat sink connector/coil contact and are ok. The heatsink coming in contact with them should have no effect. I believe what is happening is you are adding additional pressure to the board by increasing the diameter of the tube subsequently causing MAX1987 IC (under board) to make a better connection since you are effectively bending the board. I would check the MAX1987 IC and solder/reflow for a permanent fix.

[isrs64]

Our NC6000 died over night! Press the power button and nothing at all. Plug in the power supply and no leds come on to say its charging. At first thought the power supply must have gone faulty - making a ticking sound. But tried a replacement and nothing. Then thought maybe the battery was dead. Again tried a fully charged replacement, but again nothing. Took it to a dealer today who says: "if its not the power supply or battery and theres no leds it got to be the mother board, so not economical to replace it".

Any thoughts please?

Ian

[CuTi]

Hello,

please help me!
I have a NC6000 laptop and has viruses, have tried ZoneAlarm, Mcafee to clean it but can't.
The machine is VERY slow to boot up and before it get to Win login it displays with a message something like "your computer has virus, use virus software to clean it".
Because i can't clean it by ZoneAlarm, Mcafee so I am trying to re-install XP from DVD.

1st The setup read/copy from the DVD fine. After all that done, the machine then reboot and normally it goes through all the processes....detecting hardware.....display Term and Condition and will give you a setup screen with the options where I want to install etc. But sadly it never got to that point, it just shut down (not rebooting) while it carry out these processes.
So i have to press the power to turn it ON again and try again and again.
I have tried so many times but could not install a new OS.
I have also tried to press F10 to acess to BIOS, but as soon as i get into the BIOS the machine shut down again.

I am not sure what causing this? Can you please help?

Thanks in advance.

[heavyd2010]

Replace Q1014 and Q1015 OR Q1016 and Q1017 to fix the lock-up problem

Quote:

Originally Posted by gvaughn@mec.cuny

My nc6000 will some times lockup and require a hard shutdown. Too, it may not boot after sevarl tries. A post suggested that I hold down or apply pressure to the right upper portion of the laptop. This method worked to force a boot. It works all most all of the time. the machine may still seize at will. It has been suggested that the revision of motherboard that I have may be the problem. Hp denies knowledge of any problem and offer no suggestions. I found this hard to believe that they have no knowledge but rather they are playing the percentages. The problem may be a known hardware problem (with a cost factored in) that they will not address unless they are forced to.

If there is an interest, I would be willing to champion a class action to force their hand and make them addresss the problem, one way or another. If there are a number of you who have the same problem, contact me with the specifics of your problem and the steps taken, so that I can develop a list of affected users, and I will file an action in New York State court.

Professor Gregory A. Vaughn Sr.,
Department of Computer Science
Medgar Evers College, C.U.N.Y.
gvaughn@mec.cuny.edu
About Me
(718) 636-1045


A prophet is not without honor except in his own country and in his own house.
Matthew 13:57

[heavyd2010]

Yes the MAX 1987 is a big fix...

Also Q1014 & Q1015 'OR" Q1016 & Q1017 for the lockup issue...

[heavyd2010]

Replace MAX1987

Quote:

Originally Posted by isrs64

Our NC6000 died over night! Press the power button and nothing at all. Plug in the power supply and no leds come on to say its charging. At first thought the power supply must have gone faulty - making a ticking sound. But tried a replacement and nothing. Then thought maybe the battery was dead. Again tried a fully charged replacement, but again nothing. Took it to a dealer today who says: "if its not the power supply or battery and theres no leds it got to be the mother board, so not economical to replace it".

Any thoughts please?

Ian

[apophas]

I have a HP NC6000 and was suffering the same power problems as everyone else. Everyone came to the conclusion that it was a motherboard failure and they were right. Being a broke electronic technician, I found my self in need of a home repair solution because I can not afford the outragouse prices for a new board.
Afer about 2 hours of investigation under a magnifier, I was able to locate two(2) components that were bad. "completely blown off the board". 1 - Capacitor & 1 - Fuse (bothe surface mount. They are (Fuse L1013 & Capcitor C206). For the fuse I just created a solder bridge to create continuity and for the capacitor, I removed one from another different brand board I had laying around).
This worked!, I am sending this post on the NC6000 in question. If you need more info on exactly where the components are located then please post a reply.
Hope I was of some help.