Nibblers?  | | |
December 19th, 2002, 07:19 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 455
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Has anyone ever used one of these for a window mod? Do they actually work? I want to put in a window to my Antec mid tower case, but power tools aren't going to be very practical. Do I just drill a hole to start and just start snipping along my outline? |
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December 19th, 2002, 07:28 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Wales, UK
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Yes they'll work, as long as you take your time to make sure you don't work too close to the line of your finished cut....and as long as the metal isn't TOO thick??
If you're not using any power tools tho, you're gonna have a LOT of tidying and finishing to get a clean line... snips are not known for giving a clean finish. |
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December 19th, 2002, 07:28 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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Yes thats how you would use the niblers... however why are power tools impractical? I have done countless upon countless window mods to the antec/cheiftec cases. I swear by the jigsaw I have never personally used the niblers but a few friends have and claim they are junk. |
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December 19th, 2002, 07:38 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Louisville, KY
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Well - I own a jigsaw - but I broke a blade on the last case I worked on, and got really frustrated with it. Also - while I agree that nibblers may give a rough edge, in some ways they seem a little simpler of an idea. What kind of blade would you use for an Antec Mid atx case (not aluminum)? |
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December 19th, 2002, 07:47 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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Im counting the teeth on one of my blades..... I count 24 TPI i think... This one I just used on a full tower cheiftec steel case worked just fine just remember to replace the blade every so often. |
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December 19th, 2002, 08:24 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Dahlonega Ga
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I surprised anyone here knows what "nibblers" are.
IMHO they are the only way to make smooth cuts.
I've cut metal 1/8" thick with electric nibblers ! The noise was so loud that even with earplugs I could feel the pounding. |
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December 19th, 2002, 08:42 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Wales, UK
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A smooth cut along the edge of the blade, yes... but in my (admittedly limited) experience, the scissor type action tends to cause a less than smooth finish with an uneven edge between cuts.
My other thought was the possibility with softer aluminium, if the action could warp the cut edge, similar to the way a jigsaw can??
(IMHO, the power jigsaw and my Dremel clone continues to be the best combination.) |
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December 19th, 2002, 10:17 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pacific Coastal USA
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Well guys .... The union tinner is coming out now ....
1. The trick to using snips and nibblers is .... do not close the blades all the way. The blades pass each other when you close them all the way; this distorts (stretches) the metal. When you do this it also makes starting your next sqeeze (cut) more difficult; usually resulting in what we tradesmen call "fish-hooks". A very unsightly, and dangerous edge to have on metal. To successfully use snips, doublecuts and nibblers ~ just apply a steady even presure while guiding the tool where you want it to go. When you get close to the end of the blades >>stop squeezing<< open the blades again and start a new sqeeze (cut).
2. The trick to using a jig saw is to "lead" your cut when turning. This means you start to make your turn, go just a short distance, back off just 1/16 th or so and give some "releif cut" on the inside or outside of your radius before continuing. This widens the kerf (space for your blade). When the kerf is wider the blade and the metal stay cooler, there is less binding, resulting in longer blade life and less burr on the edge of your cuts. I can't tell you exactly how often to back off unless I know a whole bunch of other information. Experience is really the best teacher; just remember the instruction(s) and experiment.
3. "How many teeth per inch on the jig saw blades???" you asked. The thinner the material that you're cutting the closer together you want the teeth on the blade. For metal you want 1-1/2 to 2 teeth touching the metal at all times; otherwise as you push the tool forward the metal will get between the teeth of the blade. This will tend to distort the metal, bend (and/or break off) the teeth, and tear or rip the metal instead of cutting it.
4. Also the length of the blade (from the teeth to the back edge of the blade) will determine how tight a turn you can make. a short blade width means you can make a tight radius but it also means it can break or bend the blade much easier.
5. EXPECT TO USE SEVERAL BLADES, buy a package of 10 to start. They are cheaper that way too. The slower you cut, the longer the blades will last.
That's all from the tinn-smith ..... for now anyways.... good luck !!
Edited for grammar and minor clarification improvements =^)
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Last edited by PartsMan : December 19th, 2002 at 10:27 PM.
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December 19th, 2002, 11:24 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Iowa
Posts: 720
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Good post PartsMan!
This old merit-shop light duty tinner was going to suggest that hand-powered double cuts are a bit light duty for the metal found in most cases. The powered models are going to be out of budget for most computer types and more difficult to use than a jig saw for most people.
I would like to add that the Malco HC-1 hole cutter would be an excellent tool for cutting in extra fans. I spotted a Metal Shop brand knock-off at a local home store for less than $30.
viz
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December 20th, 2002, 12:05 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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For this kind of trouble, I would seriously just buy a case that already has a window. |
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