Thread: Canon MP390 just crashed
November 23rd, 2005, 07:29 AM #1
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
Canon MP390 just crashed
New to this so please bear with me.
I have just developed a problem with Canon MP 390 Smartbase all-in-one.
Error code ##345 appeared, along with grinding noise, Machine runs through start-up procedure, then grinding [gears?] and msge 'check printer, press OK key ' . Tried obvious things like unplugging, power on/off, won't allow me to change ink cartridge, completely jammed up. No paper jam either...
Any advice would be appreciated.
Oh yeah, its 1 month out of warranty !
November 23rd, 2005, 07:52 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jun 2002
Very sorry to hear that you're out of warranty, jelayemprins.
It sounds as though you definately have a mechanical problem. I know it's a pain, but I recommend you go inside and try to find the cause of the jam. Might be just a piece of paper or a loose screw sending the ink cartridges or, more than likely, the print head out of alignment. I think that's why you can't even be presented with the cartridge replacement position.
You should look inside to find the cause of the jam. Document every screw you remove so you can reassemble the unit properly. Good luck!
November 28th, 2005, 12:47 AM #3
Had the same problem on an HP940- The put the wrong ink cartidges in - had to open the case completely to remove them - The grinding came from the gears trying to move the ink carrier - Sager16 is very right - most printer cases are plastic - remove the screws carefully and keep track where they go.Kevin C. Walsh
December 8th, 2005, 04:20 PM #4
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- Dec 2005
Have you fixed your problem? I have exactly the same issues & error code. I have taken printer apart but can't find anything jamming the cogs etc. Can anyone suggest the answer?
December 9th, 2005, 12:58 AM #5
December 9th, 2005, 08:01 PM #6
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- Dec 2005
The error code is ##345.
I have stripped the printer & the problem seems to be with the unit that is under the printer head when it is at rest on the right hand side of the the carriage.
There are cogs behind that & they all turn , but the unit under the printer head, (with a rubber top) does not drop?
December 28th, 2005, 09:21 AM #7
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- Dec 2005
Anyone Fixed It
has anyone got a fix for this, anyone able to give any advice? I have stripped it & don't fancy calling canon & getting them to fix it.
January 21st, 2008, 06:29 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
Solution for: Canon SmartBase MP360 + Error code ##345 + grinding noise.
How to repair Canon SmartBase MP360, flashing error code ##345
Other Canon models "may" be repaired with these instructions also, for example MP370, MP390, etc. Try with your own risk.
-Grinding noise (very loud)
-Flashes error code ##345
Error code ##345 = "BJ cartridge head cleaning error" -reasons for this are:
-Foreign material or dried ink in head cleaning unit (also known as "purge unit") , or waste ink pump jammed up. Make sure waste ink pump rotates freely, after cleaning. Clean the waste pump-hose too! Waste ink pump is located under head cleaning system.
1.Take apart and wash the ink clogged mechanical parts. Use hot water.
2. Reset waste ink counter
What to do (Long version):
First, use your head!
Dont rush, this operation takes several hours / days to complete!
-Take apart the whole printer, so there is only a metal frame left, with couple of paper-rollers, and motors, and the "Print-head cleaning" -system. Wash this cleaning-system.
-Mark all wires that look the same (especially white flat ones), take photographs when disassembling, or use photographic memory :P
In detail, remove at least following items:
-Main Power lead!
-Casing (Use brigh flaslight to see TWO front cover-screws under the dark plastic!)
-Scanner (BEWARE of fragile flat-wires)
-Main electronic controller board
-Some other shit, metal plate, plastic cover, you will see.
-Plastic base plate
-All materials that might absorb water. (two sponges, and one rubber foam part)
The two sponges are between metalframe and baseplate, they absorb exess ink. Wash these separately, and dry, or change for new. (I left the shorter one out, when assembling)
There is also one long rubber foam part that is near where paper comes out, (visible from outside the printer, when cover is opened).
To get rid of the excess ink: Wash dirty parts heavily for 10 to 15 minutes with hot water. When outcoming water is clear, then it is clean.
-I let it to dry for couple of days (on heated floor), but you can use your imagination, compressed air could help it dry faster.
Assemble it back together, and it works.... at least MINE did xD
If you have no idea what youre doing, then donīt do it. But its broken anyway , what do you have to lose?
How to reset waste ink counter (you SHOULD clean the printer also):
*AF-Key = Additional Functions key = the black button with the star in a head above it.
1) Enter SERVICE MODE. (Press AF-Key, followed by "scan", "copy", "scan" -Keys)
2) Select TEST MODE (press right arrow button 13 times).
3) Hit -OK-
4) Select  PRINTER TEST
5) Hit -OK-
6) It'll now say "- 8-2 +" press the right arrow key once to get "- 8-3 +"
7) Hit -OK-
8) Select 0. [INK COUNT].
9) Hit -OK-
10) It should return to showing the "8: Printer Test - 8-3 +"
11) Press the [Stop/Reset]key - (black key with triangle and circle on it) - (returning to the state of 4), and then press the [ON/OFF] key.
Cleaning the print head:
At any time, DO NOT wipe the actual print head with your fingers. Use ONLY water.
-Remove print head assembly from printer.
-Remove ink tanks.
-Use running warm water, wash away the exess ink that is dried around the print head.
-Take one disposable mug, fill with hot water, drop the print head assembly in there, and let it soak for an hour, or so.
(-IF you have massaging shower head, with spray jet -function, use this to deep clean the actual print head.)
-Dry it up carefully, do not wipe actual print head, just tap gently with soft paper.
-Install ink tanks, install assembly to printer, let it settle for some time (5-30 minutes)
-Run Nozzle check, cleaning, print head alignment.
-All done <3
Service manual can be downloaded at: http://soft-manufaktura.ru/servman.html
Last edited by Janiporo; January 23rd, 2008 at 09:07 AM.
March 25th, 2008, 08:19 AM #9
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
##345 in detail
I had the same problem of loud clicking and this error code on my MP360. It turned out to be a sticking purge assembly mechanism. Here (from memory, so apologies if I forgot something or put it out of sequence) are detailed instructions on how to get to the root of the problem:
Unplug all cables from the printer.
Secure the front of the lid of the scanner to the scanner bed with adhesive tape to prevent it from opening during dismantling and reassembly.
Retract the telescopic extension on the paper support and carefully disengage the paper support from its two hinge pins at the rear of the printer.
From the rear, remove the power supply cover (5 screws). Lift the cover and slide to the right to disengage the tab on the cover extension from the printer casing.
Lift up the front of the scanner bed and if necessary press the release button at the front of the printer to lower the paper output tray.
Hinge forward the print cartridge access cover and remove it by disengaging the right hinge pin from the casing and lifting to allow the left hinge pin to be removed.
Disengage the right hand hinge pin of the paper output tray. Bring the right hand side of the tray forward just enough to pull the left hand hinge pin out of its keyed socket and remove the tray.
Now for the tricky bit: remove the two shiny plastic front side covers. These are clipped onto the main side covers by a number of claws Ė if you use a bright light you can see where these are through the smoked plastic. Start on the outside at the top and work down. You may need to use quite a bit of force and it may not do your fingers much good as you try to get the bottom of the covers unclipped. If anyone has a way of doing this without getting their fingers trapped Iíd like to know! Using a screwdriver or similar as a lever is not recommended as the main side covers are made of fairly soft plastic that is easily damaged.
Remove 1 screw at the front and 2 screws at the rear of the right hand side cover. Pull the cover up and away from the side of the printer, disengaging the scanner bed from its hinge socket on the cover. Note: at this point the scanner bed is no longer physically mounted on the printer so take care that it doesnít slide off or put strain on the wires.
Disconnect the scanner bed electrical connections: unplug 2 ribbon cables and 1 connector from towards the rear of the exposed printed circuit board and unscrew the earth wire terminal.
Pull the scanner bed from its remaining hinge socket on the left hand side cover and lift it off the printer, at the same time unthreading the wires from their retainer on the printer upper casing.
Use a small screwdriver to depress the 2 tabs and to lever forward the paper output tray release button from the front of the left hand side cover. Remove the button and its spring.
Remove 1 screw at the front and 2 screws at the rear of the left hand side cover. Pull the cover up and away from the side of the printer.
Unplug 3 ribbon cables from the printed circuit board, pull the loose ends up through the slot in the upper casing and unclip them from the tabs that hold them in place in their channel in the upper casing.
Remove the remaining (power supply) connector from the printed circuit board and unclip the bundle of grey wires from its guides.
Follow the pair of wires from the paper output tray release mechanism at the front left of the printer to their connection on the circuit board to the left hand side of the printer. Remove this connector and unwind the wires from the lug on the printer top cover.
Remove the 4 screws that secure the printer top cover (2 at the front and 2 in deep recesses towards the rear) and lift it free, guiding the ribbon cables through the slot.
Remove 3 screws (2 to the base and 1 to the printer assembly) and lift out the printed circuit board.
Remove 3 screws securing the rear of the printer assembly to the base: 1 at the left and 2 at the right. Note that itís not necessary to remove the second screw on the left (which is just as well, as itís almost inaccessible under the motor).
Remove the printer assembly by lifting it at the rear, allowing its front securing lugs to disengage from the base.
Unplug the electrical connectors to the purge unit from the central circuit board: a grey cable that goes to the motor and the threesome of coloured wires. Unthread these wires from their retaining clips. (Note: it is not necessary to unplug the pair of red wires that go to the other motor.)
From the rear of the printer assembly, remove 1 screw from the small metal bracket that holds a large cog and a swinging cog in place between the purge assembly motor and the drive cogs for the paper feed mechanism.
Swing the locking lever up and over the print head, remove the print head from the carriage and return the locking lever to its lower position. Keep the print head upright and put it down somewhere flat and clean (e.g. on a sheet of paper) that you donít mind getting covered in ink!
Depress the printer carriage locking mechanism (use a small screwdriver to push down on the arm with the spring attached to it at the front bottom right of the purge mechanism) and slide the printer carriage to the left along the carriage rod.
Remove the wire clip that retains the right hand end of the carriage rod and slide the rod to the left so that it is clear of the purge assembly. Try to keep the rod in line so as not to put undue strain on the toothed drive belt or the position locating film ribbon.
Remove 2 purge assembly retaining screws (1 screw at the top from the front and 1 screw at the bottom from the rear). Ensure the wires are free and guide them through the aperture as you remove the purge assembly from the front.
Remove 1 screw retaining the small circuit board with its coloured wires to the purge assembly and remove the board.
Remove 2 screws retaining the motor to the purge assembly and remove the motor. Note: as you do this, some of the items in the next three instructions may fall away from the purge assembly, so take note of their positions and orientation before you remove the motor.
Remove the set of cogs that were mounted on the motorís larger brass spindle.
Withdraw a metal spindle that was held in place by the motor to remove another cog.
Remove a third cog that was held in place by the end of the motorís smaller brass spindle.
Remove the fibre pad from its rubber moulding on the top of the purge unitís central sprung assembly.
Remove the rubber moulding.
Remove a white block of absorbent material and a thinner pad of black absorbent material from the printer base.
Wash the purge unit, the fibre pad, the rubber moulding, the black absorbent pad (and the white absorbent block if it is soiled) in warm water. Dry well (this may take some time for the absorbent items).
Lubricate the purge assembly mechanism's bearing surfaces. I presume that thereís a specific grease for this but I used some surplus yellow grease that I found elsewhere inside the printer together with a drop or two of silicon lubricant. Pay particular note to the cams on the black shaft with the black cog Ė thatís where the problem was for me. The purge assembly is is a complex mechanical mechanism with a lot of moving parts, so there is ample scope for things to wear and to jam. By rotating the shaft with the black cog with your finger you should be able to get some idea of what's not moving freely and therefore where to direct your attention. When rotated in the correct direction first the central sprung assembly should drop and then the wiper arm should pass over the sprung assembly from the rear to the front of the purge assembly and back again.
Once youíre happy that everything is free and easy, put it all back together again.
1. The two hinge pin tabs on the printer are remarkably fragile once the paper support is removed: donít put any side pressure on them (e.g. by putting the printer down on them) or they will snap off.
2. Keep careful note of the disposition of the ribbon cables Ė use a plastic paper clip, a bulldog clip or similar (something that wonít damage them) to hold them together in the right configuration. (Alternatively, mark them for identification, in which case you can disconnect them at the other end and remove them completely, although there is no need to do this.)
3. If you canít remember which screw was which, screws with a coarse pitch generally secure into plastic whereas the machine screws with a fine pitch secure into metal. So, for example, the front (upper) screw that holds the purge mechanism in place is a machine screw as it screws through a hole in the plastic of the purge assembly into the metal of the print assembly; whereas the rear (lower) screw is of coarser pitch as it screws through a hole in the metal into the plastic of the purge assembly.
4. Itís possible to test that all is well before completely reassembling the printer. WARNING: This procedure will cause the exposed power supply to be live and should only be undertaken by those who are used to working with electricity; do not work on the printer with the mains lead connected. Once the printed circuit board is in place, position the scanner bed upside down next to the printer so its cables can reach the printed circuit board. Temporarily connect all trailing wires and cables to their destinations. Check that the ribbon cables are clear of the paper feed mechanism. Finally connect the power lead to the back of the printer then to the mains and switch on. (If nothing happens then you probably need to press the on/off switch on the control panel, which, of course, is now underneath...) Once youíve observed what happens, switch off the power and unplug the mains lead first from the socket and then from the back of the printer before continuing. Youíll need to unplug some of the connections again in order to complete the reassembly. However, if youíre careful you can leave the scanner bed connections in place and simply turn it over onto the top cover once itís in place as the scanner bedís wires can be fed into their retainer on the top cover through the slot.
5. A long shafted Philips screwdriver of the correct size and with a bit of magnetic attraction (or some other way of holding the screw on the end of the driver) makes the removal and positioning of screws easier Ė particularly those in deep recesses.
6. Either acquire some disposable latex gloves or be prepared to have black hands for a few days.
April 12th, 2008, 11:57 PM #10
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- Apr 2008
Wow, gavino, your instructions are amazing but despite the best of intentions, I am not going to tackle this. My MP370 has the same error message and the grinding sound. I have tried cleaing the printer head as in the previous post but it obviously requires a more intensive repair as detailed by you. I only wish I had the time and determination to do this!! But thankyou for the post.
October 21st, 2008, 12:38 PM #11
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- Oct 2008
CLEANING PRINT HEAD
When cleaning print head does the whole assembly get immersed or do the filaments have to be removed?
Very grateful for the very detailed instructions.
October 21st, 2008, 12:47 PM #12
I have done it, running like a sewing machine! J
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- Oct 2008
Last edited by wildclyde; October 23rd, 2008 at 08:24 AM.
December 16th, 2008, 05:47 PM #13
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- Dec 2008
Done it as well!
Took a bit of time, but took it apart, soaked the purge unit. greased the lot and put it back again...got to testing stage, but the paper would not feed. I then took apart the auto sheet feeder, turning the rubber on the roller inside out - the holes to line up th gears were a godsend.
Tested again - this printer cleans the print heads alot - took out the sponge pad off the top of the purge unit again, cleaned it, and put it back.
Printer runs like a dream now. Never done this before - learnt alot about printers in the process.
BTW, my next printer - I want it to be a canon multifunction. Is it possible to get one that doesnt constantly clean itself? Better yet can I change the firmware or something on this one?
Great instructions, thanks.
April 24th, 2009, 12:43 PM #14
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- Apr 2009
I was busy browsing to find out if anyone else experienced the problem I have with my MP390 and to my surprise I just read that there is someone with exactly the same problem.I was told the printer needs a service and then three days after I took the item in was told it will cost me R2710.00 to repair after I only paid R999.00 for this printer?I never had any problems with it and even the cartridges was not too expensive!Now what,where can I buy parts?I am from South Africa.
February 5th, 2010, 10:47 AM #15
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- Feb 2010
I wish all instruction manuals were written by gavino!
Just a couple of points for anyone else attempting this:
1) I found on my MP360 that the print cartridge access cover could only be removed AFTER removing the two shiny plastic front side covers.
2) Even after cleaning and greasing the purge unit, mine still occasionally made the grinding noise when turning the first cog (normally driven by the motor) by hand while the purge unit was still out of the printer. However after fitting both the purge unit and the bracket with the swinging cogs back in the printer, I was able to turn the cogs by hand and the movement was smooth, with no more grinding.
February 22nd, 2012, 11:16 AM #16
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- Feb 2012
canon mp390 error 345
Hi to everyone
A friend give to me a canon mp390 because he had a problem with it and he said anyway I am going to buy a new one if can fix it you an keep ok ??
so I open it and after 2 hours of sweat and a thousands of screws i found that there was an unidentified screw stuck into the paper bin ok so i take it out and when i put all the cables back I made a mistake
where i have to put those 3 cables tapes from the top where it scans and where is the control board to the main board into the printer by mistake i put the cable for head 0 into the slot of head1 and the cable for head1 into the slot of head0 just put some electricity to it and i got a heavy smoke ))after that on the display shows me that error 345
when i open it i saw that the damage is not as big as i thought it was burn only one element looking more like a transistor market as Q12
so is there anyone to know where i can find a schematic of the main board because if take it to the local service they will consider that the main board is burned and will charge me a whole board (better to buy a new one) but its only i tinny transistor
i have some experience with electronics but this is beyond me
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