Help, my gaming computer doesn't stay on?

[Firejack]

Just today I built my gaming computer and made sure all the needed wires for data and power were connected. To test out my Power Supply, I plugged it into the outlet and turned my computer on. My computer would turn on for a few seconds, turn off for a few seconds, and then repeat. To try to find out the problem, I took out my RAM. When all my RAM was out, my computer would stay on, but once it got past the initial beep, it would keep beeping. To see if my RAM was the problem, I took 2 sticks at a time and put them into my slots in A-A, B-B, and sometimes even A-B configuration. I did this with BOTH sticks. Each time I changed the configuration, the boot up was the same as the initial start-up. I thought it was that my PSU wasn't strong enough to power my computer, but I feel like it should be. Maybe it's my motherboard- I know that I touched it a couple times with my finger, but I didn't put my hand all over it. However, when I was mounting my Mobo to its standoffs, I did drop one of the screws near the edge. I don't think any of this should have caused my motherboard to malfunction. Can ANYBODY please help me with my problem?

Rig Specs:
Cooler master HAF XM Mid-tower Case
Asus p8z68-v/Gen3 Intel Z68 Motherboard
Intel i5-3570k CPU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler
Lite-on CD+DVD RW Optical Drive
Seagate Barracuda 1 TB Harddrive
Ultra LSP-650 650W PSU
Sound Blaster Audigy 7.1 Sound Card
EVGA Geforce GTX 570
Patriot G2 Series 8GB DDR3 RAM (1600 Mhz) x2

[stroyal]

Welcome to TechIMO!

The first thing it could be is a short, under the motherboard.
Second is a sticking power switch.

Those are just guesses.

First you have to set up with min configuration, outside the case.

The only thing you can tell, with all memory removed, is what the no memory beep sounds like.

Min configuration is
Motherboard
1 stick of memory
power supply
CPU
Video card
Monitor
Nothing else.

If it still doesn't work, the only way to find what is wrong, is substituting parts one at a time, or trying your parts in a known working computer.


If it dose work outside the case, your standoff are probably wrong.


But the wrench in the works here is that Ultra power supply.
It should be plenty big enough, but I would never even consider one.

All your parts are very high quality, then the most important part, the foundation for the whole computer, you bought cheap crap.

You are not alone, but I just don't get it.

[stroyal]

Here is our power supply post.

Power Supply Info

[ShyguyXPC]

Stroyals list of suggestions should be tried first, but to add to that...


you tried the RAM, which unless both sticks are dead, would rule out RAM being installed in wrong slots.

(also, just for clarfication, your motherboard is not a Z68, its a Z77 chipset, even shows it in the model number)

Next glaring problem is that Power supply, Contrary to what many inexperienced builders and users think, Ultra is a crap brand.

It should power the system, but I honestly wouldn't even consider buying one for my setups. Back when Ultra came out with the first Modular X-Connect power supplies back MANY MANY years ago, they were decent quality, but since then 99% of Ultra's PSU's are junk. the only ones that would even be decent IMO would be the over priced top end units.


That particular model is at least 3 years old, there were 2 companies that made that series, even then, their both low end brands/units.

to add more fuel to fire, the +12V Rail is a weak 38 Amp for a 650W rated unit.

My Antec Neo Eco 520W has a single 40A +12V rail, and that only cost me about $50 on sale.

Ultra Lifetime Series Professional LSP650 Overview & User Reviews - Power Supplies - CNET Reviews

Request: Ultra LSP review - jonnyGURU Forums

Ultra LSP650 - Specs & Reviews

Ultra LSP650 on Sandy Bridge Build Issues

HARDOCP - Conclusion - Ultra X4 850W and 1050W Power Supplies Review


Ultra LSP750

HARDOCP - Ultra X2 750w - Ultra X2 Extreme Edition 750w Power Supply

Ultra is hit or miss with their units plain and simple.

The Companies that actually make their units are low end brands as well.


Some units may be ok, but most IMO are not.

in one of those links above, on OCN, one of the members keeps going on about the Lifetime Warranty BS, sleeved cables, extra connectors, etc, and it works for him... completely negating the fact that these points are extras, aesthetics and do NOT address the units actual reliability and performance.

Lifetime warranty, 3 year warranty, doesn't matter, just because something has a lifetime warranty on it, doesn't mean it will last longer, or is better quality, something he's not getting.


They may work fine for some people (Ultra PSU's), but Ultra's business practices, marketing claims of their products, and not making good on them, as well as marketing rebadged products identical to other brands and claiming their's is better when its the same damn thing, and the fact that Tigerdirect/Systemax is their parent company, is why I don't trust them, add to that generally bad PSU quality/reliability.

Its also why I'm a bit skeptical and don't buy much from Tigerdirect, they more or less pioneered the deceptive online retailer sales techniques of advertising an item on sale, only to find out that advertised sales price is with Mail In Rebate factored in, and not telling you the AT CHECKOUT price is more.

Now Newegg has gotten into that deceptive practice as well.

Add to that, a HUGE chunk of Tigerdirects Rebates never get back to customers who sent them in.


With the amount of High end hardware you have in this system, do yourself a favor and get a higher quality PSU to run it all.


eXtreme Outer Vision - eXtreme tools for computer enthusiasts


System Type: 1 physical CPU
Motherboard: High End - Desktop
CPU Socket: Socket LGA 1155
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3400 MHz Ivy Bridge
CPU Utilization (TDP): 90% TDP

RAM: 2 Sticks DDR3 SDRAM
Video Card 1: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570

ATTENTION: FOR PERSONAL, NON-COMMERCIAL USE ONLY

Regular SATA: 1 HDD

DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive: 1 Drive

Fans
Regular: 4 Fans 140mm;

Keyboard and mouse: Yes

System Load: 90 %


Minimum PSU Wattage: 408 Watts
Recommended Wattage: 458 Watts


Using this PSU Calculator, assuming everything is being pulled from the +12V Rail, it would explain why the PSU isn't able to handle it, 38A on the +12V is 456W... shows minimum of 408W, but if the PSU is older and lower quality the efficiency and output of it can lower over time after being used for a while.

granted some of the system will tap into the 3.3 and 5V Rails as needed, usually Mobo/RAM/CPU, but the rest of the systems hardware taps into the +12V rail.




for right now, make sure your have the extra 8 pin EPS/ATX 12V connector plugged into the motherboard, some PSU's will have it as a 4+4 Pin connector.

If that does work, I would consider a newer, better quality PSU, at least some thing in the 500-550W Range, Corsair, Seasonic, Antec, NZXT, XFX, Silverstone, Coolermaster, Thermaltake, Zalman, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling, Xigmatek, just to name a few.

[ShyguyXPC]

Newegg.com - SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - XFX Core Edition PRO550W (P1-550S-XXB9) 550W ATX12V 2.2 & ESP12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

[Firejack]

I wasn't aware whether Ultra was crap or not, I guess I definitely should've researched that first before doing anything, considering that the PSU is so important.

I edited my post to say p8z68-v/gen3, because the z77 was a typo. I'm assuming the problem isn't the power supply, since it stays on without the RAM in, but perhaps the BIOS. The i5-3570k is an ivybridge, and the z68 is configured for sandybridge. However, ivybridge CAN work on the z68, I'm just not sure how to update my BIOS if my computer doesn't even stay on.

[ShyguyXPC]

you'll need to use a CPU that works, if you can afford it, pick up a cheap $50 CPU that will work in the board.

its possible your Mobo doesn't have the Bios version to support Ivy's, a lot of Z68's don't, but some do.

even this low end $40 Single core will do the trick.

Newegg.com - Intel Celeron G440 1.6GHz LGA 1155 Single-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80623G440


Assuming it is an issue with the CPU and Bios, otherwise it could be $40 wasted.


But worth a shot, worst case scenario, it doesn't work, and Bios is up to date, and you have a spare CPU left over to use as a back up if something happened to the Ivy.

Worst case scenario taken into effect, I would consider this Dually for $10 more.

Newegg.com - Intel Celeron G530 Sandy Bridge 2.4GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80623G530

it would at least be usable for gaming if the Ivy ever took a dump on you. used as a back up until one could replace it.